Best Glue for Resin Figurines: Superglue vs Epoxy vs UV Resin
Not all adhesives work equally well on resin collectibles. Here's exactly which glue to use for each type of break — and the mistakes that make repairs worse.
The single most common repair mistake is reaching for the wrong adhesive. The right choice depends on the type of break, the stress the joint will bear, and how much gap-filling is needed.
Option 1 — Cyanoacrylate (Super Glue)
Best for: clean breaks on low-to-medium stress joints (arms, weapons, tails, decorative elements)
Cyanoacrylate bonds extremely well to clean resin surfaces — often stronger than the original material. It's fast-setting (60–90 seconds tack, 24 hours full cure), low-viscosity, and leaves a very fine, nearly invisible seam on tight-fitting breaks.
Limitations: brittle under impact, poor gap-filling ability, white residue (bloom) if applied in humid conditions or with too much adhesive. Get the gel version for better control.
Recommended products: Loctite Super Glue Gel Control, Gorilla Super Glue Gel
Option 2 — Two-Part Epoxy
Best for: structural/load-bearing joints (ankles, waists, bases), large gaps, multi-fragment repairs
Two-part epoxy (mix equal volumes of resin and hardener) creates a rigid, impact-resistant bond with excellent gap-filling properties. 5-minute epoxy gives you working time to position pieces; 24-hour epoxy produces a stronger final bond.
Limitations: longer cure time, slightly visible at the seam if surfaces don't mate perfectly, can yellow slightly over years under UV.
Recommended products: Araldite Rapid (5-min), Araldite Standard (24hr), Gorilla 2-Part Epoxy
Option 3 — UV-Cure Resin
Best for: gap filling, very thin joints, transparent or translucent parts (crystals, wings, flame effects)
UV-cure resin stays workable until exposed to UV light (from a UV lamp or sunlight), giving unlimited positioning time. Once cured, it's sandable, paintable, and can be tinted with pigments for colour-matching. Excellent for filling seam lines before painting.
Limitations: requires a UV lamp for reliable results, can remain slightly tacky if undercured, not suitable for deep joints (UV can't penetrate thick layers).
Recommended products: Bondic, Solarez Bone Dry
Option 4 — Epoxy Putty (Gap Filling)
Best for: sculpting missing pieces, filling large gaps, rebuilding lost details
Two-part epoxy putty (Milliput, Green Stuff) is mixed by kneading equal parts together. It remains workable for 30–60 minutes, can be sculpted with tools, smoothed with water, and hardens to a sandable, paintable solid. Essential for serious restoration work.
Surface Preparation Is Non-Negotiable
Regardless of which adhesive you choose: clean break surfaces with isopropyl alcohol, allow to dry completely, and do not touch with bare fingers before bonding. Skin oils are enough to prevent proper adhesion.
What Not to Use
- PVA / white glue — flexible when dry, virtually no bond strength on non-porous resin
- Hot glue — weak bond, visible, heat can warp thin resin and lift paint
- Contact cement — repositioning is impossible and bond quality is inconsistent on resin
Discover Our Magical Figures
Hand-painted limited-edition collectibles crafted for true collectors.
Browse the Collection